The Realign ‘Structure Selvedge’ fabric unraveled

Aug 07, 2021

The Realign ‘Structure Selvedge’ fabric unraveled

For our first 信じる人のために collection, we have carefully selected a ‘Structure Selvedge’ as our weapon of (denim) choice. Having Collect Mills as our fabric partner gives us endless possibilities when it comes to fabric selection, with great variety in terms of cotton, weave, color and weight. As soon as we started to think about our first Realign collection, we knew that we wanted to use the Structure Selvedge as it is such an exciting and characterful fabric. Below, you’ll find more information on why we chose this denim and the process behind its manufacture.

How Structure Selvedge is Made 

Structure Selvedge is a product of renowned denim makers Collect Mills and is woven in-house in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture. The name ‘Structure Selvedge’ derives from the structured texture and framework of the fabric, with the fabric idea conceived by the mill itself which lends to its exclusivity and uniqueness. 

The yarns are spun from a blend of American and Australian cotton, with the warp yarns being rope-dyed in indigo. Rope dyeing is considered to be one of the best methods for dyeing yarns and gives the fabric a fantastic fading potential. 

After dyeing, the fabric is woven on antique shuttle looms – the traditional way of making denim – in a right hand twill construction and under a low tension. The fabric is also sanforized in order to eliminate the majority of shrinkage, which means you can buy your actual or true waist size.


Weight and Characteristics 

Structure Selvedge is weighted at 16 oz. per square yard, which can be categorized as a mid-to-heavyweight fabric. The fabric may feel rigid and tough during the first few weeks but it will soon soften with wear, especially due to the low-tension weave. The fabric will then begin to mold to your body shape, resulting in a clean and contemporary silhouette with a characterful aesthetic as the fabric fades. The irregularity and ‘slub’ of the fabric is unlike any other denim we’ve seen and combined with the deep blue hue of the indigo, results in a truly unique pair of jeans.

Fade Potential

Although our Structure Selvedge has an intense and beautiful deep blue color prior to it being worn, the fabric will soon come alive with wear. It provides consistent overall wear and fading, with a textbook Japanese look and feel. If you’re looking to achieve high contrast fades, we would advise postponing the first wash for 6-12 months if possible. However, washing more frequently will achieve a ‘vintage’ aesthetic with a more uniform fade and colour. Below you can see a sample of the denim which has been worn consistently for 10 months without a single wash.

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